So what exactly is a cleansing balm? In cosmetics, there are many different types of balms.
Some examples are:
- hand or foot balm for dry or problem skin
- a cleansing balm
- exfoliating body balm
- lip balm
- masque balm, used as a leave on intensive treatment for face or neck or décolletage
- nail cuticle strengthening balm
- baby balm for soothing rashes
A balm is a solid, anhydrous (waterless) blend essentially made up of oils, butters, and waxes. It can be used as a base for many different beauty products. Oils & butters will provide the skin with nourishing properties, and wax will provide a solid ‘frame’ to solidify the balm. The different wax types and the amount used in the formula will dictate its’ final texture; its’ hardness or softness. In general, the more wax it contains, the harder the balm will be. You can play with many different waxes. All kinds of healing oils, butters, extracts and botanicals can be added to adapt to the skin type you are catering to. Only a small amount is needed when used on the face as these are very rich & deeply hydrating products.
One can play with colors too by adding natural oil soluble pigments. Purple or yellow clays, blue azuline, green oils like avacado, orange ones like buriti or sea buckthorn extract, can give stunning colorful balms. A cleansing balm is an extremely nourishing and gentle way to wash your face without drying. With a clean spatula, take some balm out, so as not to contaminate it with water or dirty fingers. This is a waterless product and has no preservative, so IT IS VITAL NOT TO CONTAMINATE Your JAR WITH WATER . Spread over skin, and you can leave it on fora few minutes to let the beautiful oils and botanicals sink in as with a masque, & then rinse off with a warm cloth. Skin will be silky smooth , clean, and deeply hydrated.
It takes quite a lot of practice to get the perfect balm formula. Each ingredient will play a role in its’ final texture, so you need to try and get the right combination of oils, butters and waxes to get a nice texture, not too greasy, not too liquidy, melting on skin in a nice way.
Here is a simple but beautiful formula I will share to get you started. This is a gorgeous pink, floral scented balm that is non greasy and silky to the touch. Feel free to change the aroma to any you like. Rose wax can be replaced with beeswax but the hardness will be slightly different.
Glass or metal heatproof bowl , scale, whisk or spoon for stirring, one smaller beaker or bowl , round container 40ml for balm.
|Vitamin E||.5||.15g 6 drops|
|Rose arome||.5||.15g 8 drops|
Method of manufacture
Step 1/ Melt the rose wax, shea butter and oil in a water bath. Stir during melting for a uniform temperature distribution.
Step 2/ Once everything is melted, turn the heat off and remove the beaker from the water bath, stir while it cools down slightly.
Step 3/ When the blend is cooler, under 40°, add anti-oxidant in the mixture, stir well.
Step 4/ Stir constantly in a cold water bath to help thicken . Make sure no water gets in the mixture.
Step 5/ The clay won’t dissolve in the oil, but we pre-disperse it in part of our oil phase to avoid any clumps. When the balm comes to a light trace you can add this clay in the mixture. Blend well.
Step 6/ Add the EO’s. Continue your cooling and stirring, until you reach the trace you’ve been looking for.Trace is when you can create a line in the balm and it stays , meaning the balm is solidifying as it should.
Step 7/ Pour into suitable jars before mixture becomes too solid, label. Do not cover your container right away to avoid condensation. After about an hour you can put your cleansing balm for at least 12 hours in the fridge (ideally 24hrs). And then let it adjust to room temperature.
Step 8/ To use, scoop out some balm with a clean, dry spatula and then put it on face and rub all over. Let sink in the beautiful oils for 1 or 2 minutes and then wash off with a hot cloth gently.
Make sure no water gets in your container with this balm as there is no preservative system here so even a drop of water can cause bacteria to grow in this waterless product.
Let us know how your balm turns out if you try this one or improvise and make your own !We’d love to see how yours looks.